The Modus Operandi: Turning and Burning the Mini Luna

By Lotuff Leather

The stitching of every Lotuff bag contains at least 48 hand-tied knots, and today in the studio, those knots are being turned and burned. This is our unofficial term for the act of melting the ends of each knot and folding it back over into the leather, which is one of the most critical steps we take in making any piece. 

For each knot, we burn the nylon thread just enough to melt it, and then before it hardens, the knot and end are pulled back into the stitch’s hole with tweezers and pushed in with a hammer. We subsequently use a bone folder to smooth the leather back over the sealed knot, which hides it almost completely and makes it extremely unlikely that any unraveling will happen later on down the line. 

The dual-colored threads of the Mini Luna are safely secured in one of three manners: a non-visible turn-and-burn, a visible turn-and-burn, and an edge wrap. Non-visible ones are done on a piece of leather that will later be attached to another; because the knot will never see the open air, the bone folder step is rendered unnecessary. Visible ones appear on the bag’s exterior, and so it’s important that these are perfectly sealed and invisible. Edge wraps are, lastly, extra-strong turn-and-burns by virtue of five threads that reinforce the bag’s corners. Once all of these are completed and determined to be undetectable, this run of Mini Lunas will move on to their next stage.

-Liz Silvia